|
CFDBASHER
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2009, 01:11:04 AM » |
|
Decals have come a long way in the years I've been building models. My preferred method is to use a shallow glass rectangular bowl with about 1 inch of warm water. But first I check decal to determine if protective film is on entire page, or just around model. Next I use an Xacto Razor blade pen (always with new blades [a box of 100 cost around $15]) to trim the decal as close as possible to edges. This eliminates any future yellowing, a problem with white or light colored models. And who wants that unsightly raised film edge 1/4 inch from the decal that shows up in too many photographs?. Plus the newer decals have adhesive under all areas of the page, and do not use the film as the attaching agent (those old 1960s era airplane decals used this method).
Its a good idea to lay dry decal on model and check to see if it fits first. I always lay model on folded cloth for cushioning to have decaled surface facing up (let gravity help), and don't rush. Do one side at a time. I soak cut/trimmed decal in warm water from ten to twenty seconds (a usual time period, but some decals will slip in 5 seconds, and some not until a minute or more), then use pincher-tweezers to pick up decals. Prior to applying, I run some water with a brush on area where decal will sit (this helps slide and position decal). A wet Q-Tip helps to accurately position the decal. When happy with position, I carefully dab with a dry Q-Tip, or toilet paper folded into postage stamp dabber to remove excess water.
If door jams, gas cap, or fender seperation indentations intersect a decal, or longer graphic or stripe, I apply a thin coat of Microscale Micro Sol*** setting solution, and let it work for an hour. Use a wet Q-Tip if decal requires repositioning, and for pressing into afore mentioned indentations. Sometimes several applications are required, over a multi-day period may be needed. For door handles and protrusions, you may have to cut top surface with an Xacto point to allow decal to lie flat. If a bubble appears during the process, a gentle tap with a sharp pin (heat first near match or lighter head, as hot point will better cut through decal film. but not red hot). Larger bubbles may be pushed to edge with wet Q-Tip. If in middle of larger decal, use pin method, then dab area with Micro Sol (you may have to repeat), and then dab with dry Q-Tip.
***Be aware that ink on uncoated or garage manufactured decals may run after Micro Sol application (so check a decal first), and it will "bleed" the red out of plastic in taillights (at least in Gearbox models). The red is a pain to remove, but a trimmed Q-Tip with dilute Clorox will work (from experience).
When dry, trim decals at edge of headlight/tailinght bezel with a new Xacto blade, and remove excess. Carefully cut the decal with new Xacto blade over opening door jam, hood, or truck point. Use Q-Tip soaked in Micro sol to adhere newly cut edges to body. reapply if needed. Then use water on a Q-Tip or folded TP to carefully dab decals to remove any excess solvent accumulations. Be careful not to move or damage decals.
I do not seal my models with clear coat. The coating may eventually interfere with bonds in the decal film. I've seen it also yellow film surface. And if you have detailed with silver, or flats, the clear may ruin the edges of the trim area, by re-liquifying the top surface of the brushed on paint.
I have used FUTURE Floor Wax to seal a model. Sounds foolish, but a blind six-toed trained Cat could apply it properly, and it seems to find its own even coating. Just have to let dry a week or two for a hard surface. And you can actually "buff" the wax surface, for a great shine. I have one car I coated by this method almost seven years ago, and it still holds a shine, and can be re-buffed to eliminate fingerprints from body acid (something you can't do with paints or clearcoat). And the decals look as they were applied yesterday.
|
