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Author Topic: How to make 1:64th scale spotlights  (Read 395 times)
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motorcade1
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« on: October 14, 2009, 07:07:57 AM »

This post originated on FireEngines.net when someone asked where they could get 1:64th scale spotlights.  I made a Detroit Police car fabricating both spotlights and antenna as a reply and posted several photos of that car.  Interest was expressed as to the method I used to fabricate these detail items so I put this "How To" together and posted it on that forum and quickly decided others might benefit from it here on this forum.  These Greenlight Collectible FCVs lend themselves to detailing as these photos show.  So here is that "How To"...

By the way, if anyone is interested in the photos I made note of above, simply follow this link...  http://www.modelfiretrucks.net/smf/index.php?topic=11572.0      

The only problem is that I sort of didn't pay attention to the setting on my camera and the photos are a tad large.  You may find that if you "save" them to your computer you will find it much easier to look them over.  Oh well, what can I say but that I goofed.




When working in such a small scale, you will find it difficult, sometimes impossible to hold some of the parts and things that you fabricate.  So patience is a very important trait to possess... at least while you're working on these.  There are basically three materials to this project... a small thin pin, epoxy, and "Realistic Light Lenses for Models" by M.V. Products (can be found at hobby shops with trains).  As a general rule I will fabricate my own spotlight lenses but when you're working with things this small it is a royal pain to do so.

Let's see if I can describe the process...  

Photo A... shows the beginner that you should use masking tape to mark the spot you are going to drill.  This will prevent your drill from slipping and scratching your model's paint.  In addition, should your drill bit fail, and break, it will help to prevent additional damage to your model as long as you strike where the tape is.  So if you're uncertain of your abilities... put more tape on a larger area.  Also for the beginner, shown with the replica is a "Pin Vise" that you should use to do this task.  Use of a power drill can be disastrous.  The slowly operated pin vise will work very well and prevent you from making major mistakes.

Photo B... shows that you should start your drilling at a 90 degree angle to the A Pillar.  This will help to prevent the drill bit from slipping sideways and bending.  Both things can break your drill bit.

Photo C... As you drill into the A Pillar and get a good "bite" into it (photo 2) you can start to slowly drop your drill down until you are parallel with the hood which is the angle you want to receive your spotlight control shaft.  Keep turning your drill while lowering it.  This will cut away material at the bottom side of the drill bit to enable the spotlight shaft to position correctly.  It will also prevent the drill bit from bending excessively and breaking.  Once you are on the same plane as the hood you can direct pressure onto the drill to enable it to drill through the A Pillar.  It is a good idea from time to time to remove the drill bit from the model and clean it so that it will work efficiently.

Photo D... Once the hole or holes are drilled through, you will need to fabricate a spotlight shaft.  Here I use a common sewing pin.  You can usually find one that is very thin for this purpose.  I chose a sewing pin because it is easy to bend to the shape needed, is chrome plated, and is small enough to appear in scale (or close to it).  I have a set of smooth jaw pliers which I use to hold the pin.  I then bend the pin to a right angle and tap on the exposed surface with a small hammer to sharpen that angle.


* A.JPG (121.05 KB, 640x480 - viewed 42 times.)

* B.JPG (108.47 KB, 640x480 - viewed 46 times.)

* C.JPG (107.41 KB, 640x480 - viewed 39 times.)

* D.JPG (128.82 KB, 640x480 - viewed 44 times.)
« Last Edit: October 14, 2009, 07:20:53 AM by motorcade1 » Logged

Motorcade-1
motorcade1
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« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2009, 07:09:09 AM »

Photo E...  After shaping the pin, you can trim the tip off and apply epoxy to the pin and place it into the receiving hole in the A Pillar.  By leaving the head of the pin intact, you can continue to make adjustments to the "spotlight control shaft" as the epoxy sets.

At this point I might add something I forgot to add earlier.  Use a drill bit the same size of the pin and test fit before you attempt to epoxy it in place.  As for the epoxy, use "5 Minute" epoxy so that you don't have to spend a decade waiting for it to set.

Photos F & G...  Simply show that once the epoxy cures overnight, you can cut the verticle part of the shaft to the needed height with a small pair of sidecutters.  Once that is done, you can use a Dremel Tool with a sanding disc to grind off the face of the verticle shaft to receive the reflector (lens).  By sanding this flat you create a better surface for the lens or lenses to bond to.

Photo H... shows a close-up of the verticle shaft grinded flat to receive the reflector.


* E.JPG (134.95 KB, 640x480 - viewed 38 times.)

* F.JPG (122.79 KB, 640x480 - viewed 37 times.)

* G.JPG (120.41 KB, 640x480 - viewed 39 times.)

* H.JPG (122.56 KB, 640x480 - viewed 44 times.)
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2009, 07:10:36 AM »

Photo I...   These are the reflectors, or lenses, that I used for this project.  As I noted earlier, I was not happy with the size of the reflectors I had used on the white Detroit Police car I first showed.  The reflector size I used on that car was 2.6 mm and appeared too large for me.  This 2.1 mm lens (LS 280) appears more to scale as you will see shortly.

Photo J & K...  These show the placement of the reflectors onto the prepared spotlight control shafts.  I set the driver side to be directed forward while the passenger side was angled up and toward the driver side to give it the appearance of having been used.  I suggest that you let the epoxy set slightly after you mix it (test with toothpick and note if it shows signs of tackiness).  This way you can attach one reflector and it won't fall off.  You can make quick adjustments and then attach the second reflector.  If you do it correctly, the second reflector will tack onto the control shaft as did the first.

NOTE:  Apply the epoxy to the prepared surface of the control shaft... not to the reflector.
 

The mounting of the reflectors is the most frustrating part as the reflector is very hard to hold.  You may find that you will drop it a few times or it will spin around as you try to hold it.  This is why you don't apply the epoxy to the reflector .  You might try a good pair of tweezers (which I did not have) and I suggest you apply masking tape to the face of the clamp ends.  This should allow the tweezers to grab the reflectors as the tape will have some softness to it allowing for better grip.  Experiment with this method before actually attempting to mount the reflectors.

Photo L...  After the reflectors have "set" to the control shafts (since I only work on them in the evening I let them cure overnight) you can start to "build up" the spotlight itself with more epoxy.  I use a toothpick to add small amounts to the back of the reflector, let it set, and add more until I feel it looks right, or is as close as I can get it.  Basically, you are looking for something that is aesthetically pleasing to the eye as it is too small to get perfectly.


* I.JPG (128.47 KB, 640x480 - viewed 48 times.)

* J.JPG (129.55 KB, 640x480 - viewed 49 times.)

* K.JPG (124.85 KB, 640x480 - viewed 43 times.)

* L.JPG (111.06 KB, 640x480 - viewed 46 times.)
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Motorcade-1
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« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2009, 07:11:31 AM »

Whew....  Shocked   Almost done...  Cheesy

OK... after letting the spotlights "cure" overnight, you are ready to finish them.  All you have to do is paint the housing behind the reflectors semi-gloss black.  You can use a fine camel's hair paint brush and semi-gloss black acrylic paint -or- you can use a fine pointed toothpick and the semi-gloss black acrylic paint as I did.  Use which ever method works best for you.  Experimentation will answer that for you.

Photo M... Shows the finished spotlight from the side of the replica.  Though the "housing" is not quite accurate, it is pleasing to the viewer as the size is so small.  This shows the spotlight as it sits on the control shaft.

Photo N...  This shows the finished spotlights on the black car as compared to the earlier example as shown on the white car.  As you can see, the spotlights on the black car clearly appear more to scale than those on the white car.  In fact, it actually magnifies the error in the scale of the spotlights on the white car.  I may or may not correct this on the white car... depends on if I have the time or the motivation.

In closing... This method may seem elaborate and difficult (due to the need for numerous photos to show a beginner how to do this) but it really isn't.  By all means, the beginner should practice this on a scrap car until he or she gets confident.  But the experianced modeler should have little if any trouble replicating this project.  In fact, I expect to be told later how to do this in a more efficient manner.

Finally, someone asked that I also do a "How To" on the radio antennas....  I decided that it was taking too long to get this one done for just the spotlights.  I will do the antenna later.  Hopefully later this week or next week.  Until then... I hope this is helpful to some of you out there. 

I hope I didn't drag this out too far... if so... Sorry.   Undecided Undecided


* M.JPG (106.53 KB, 640x480 - viewed 57 times.)

* N.JPG (114.06 KB, 640x480 - viewed 67 times.)
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Motorcade-1
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« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2009, 06:31:03 PM »

Now go out and make some yourself...  Grin   Remember, you can modify this to any scale by increasing the size as appropriate for your model and it's scale.  I will add shortly another section to this showing an additional way to make spotlights cheaper and with good results for larger scales.

C-Ya........  Mark   Smiley Cool Smiley
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